Handling Your Steadicam Zoom & Focus

I've flown a lot of Steadicams without having much zoom and focus (z/f) control. I'll either be using a camera without any z/f assist or I'll have someone else in control. I personally don’t enjoy having someone assist me. I prefer to be the sole operator. I like my shot to have only my thoughts behind them, and nobody else's. If you have the right assistant who you really connect with, you can pull off some pretty amazing shots but with two people having to nail the shot, it feels like there's a bigger margin for error, so for me, I'd rather do it all on my own. There are a lot of small light weight zooms you can purchase, but if you're looking for something durable with easy to use controls, I highly recommend the Jimmy Jib Zoom & Focus Control System. There  are a lot of varieties of these bigger controllers but, the Jimmy Jibs system is (one of) the most popular. There are a few aspects which will immediately jump out at you. The initial thing is that it’s a little awkward because it’s bigger than you’d think. It pretty much acts as a second handle. At first I didn't like having the second handle option, but now I can't operate without it. I feel naked if it's not there. You can mount it any way that feels most comfortable to you, even vertically. I guarantee that if you haven’t had one of these mounted to your rig, it will feel really awkward at first, no matter what the positioning. Slap it on, and figure out what feels the most practical for you. After you get a sense for it, try mounting it differently to see if there’s any improvement. The beautiful thing about the Jimmy Jib system is that it gives you the option of assigning the direction you want the controls to operate. I have mine set so that my zoom is pushed out to zoom out, and pulled in to zoom in. My focus dial is set the same, roll out to focus to a greater depth, roll it in to roll your focus closer.

The Jimmy Jib system will definitely not be the perfect solution for everyone, due to its weight and size . There are the operators who work with smaller cameras and prefer a lighter load over the bigger systems. There are a few brands in particular that you'll see in someone’s arsenal like, the VariZoom or Libec controllers. Libec also makes a simple cheap zoom for Sony EX cameras. If you're in the big leagues and working with huge budgets, the system that seems to get the most attention is the Aladin MKII. It will connect to almost any lens out there, has wireless control with a huge range, and comes with all the options you'd ever need. The sensitivity on any cheaper models likely won't be adjustable so as always it really comes down to understanding your equipment and getting a feel for it as much as possible. The Jimmy Jib has good pressure response and allows me to really ease into my zooms without making a jarring shot. I swear that as a Steadicam operator, having even a little bit of control at your fingertips will make a world of difference. Any extra movement will make your sweeps much more grand.

If you don't have the privilege of controlling your own focus on the fly, you have to play it safe. This is especially true if you're flying with any type of prime lens. No matter what your lens might be, there are some basics you’ll need to know. You'll really need to understand your lens, depth of field and your distances, so make sure you comprehend all of the variables in your shots regarding distance and stay within a safe playing field. If you have zoom control don't push in any more than 20- 25% while shooting or you'll chance going out of your focal range. In general, it’s always safest staying wide because you'll be at your largest depth of field. That being said, if you’re flying with any lens wider than 35mm, you’ll have to take note of the circular distortion that can occur in close range. You don’t want your Host to look like they have a round head. So if you’re using a super wide lens, zoom in about 10% to avoid this. If you’re flying with a zoom lens and keep changing your focal length, the trick to reassure everything is looking nice and crisp is to get your focus from your main position (your final landing spot or the spot that you'll be floating around the most). If you’re doing a move where you start far away but move close to your Host, get focus from your landing spot, then any big sweeping intros you perform will generally look fine.

Now let’s get into the finer points of working with your own z/f control. There are three main things that you’ll need to do to master your own control: figure out the most comfortable positioning for your controller on the arm, know the sensitivity of your zoom and focus levers and understand when to smoothly activate your moves. One thing I can't stand is when I notice the exact moment when someone's zoom is being touched. You're a Steadicam Operator; everything should always be smooth and flawless. Have an easy trigger finger when either zooming in or out; this means you have to know your trigger. Practice your zoom to know just how light you need to be to keep it smooth. There are ways to assist this too: If you're about to zoom out, try slowly pulling the Steadicam out as you lightly zoom. This way it gives you a much smoother pull out and it looks even more fantastic than either one of those single moves by themselves.

Same thing if you're zooming in; start your move first before using your trigger. Once again it'll create a look that seems more exaggerated than your shot normally would. As long as you keep it looking like one precise thought, not segmented. The zoom is however, only one aspect of the process, the other is the focus. Once again, this is just one of those things that you'll need to practice and practice until you're completely comfortable with the mechanism.

A good way to practice the combo is to set up an object, stand about 10 feet away, go full wide, blur your focus, then try to zoom tight on the object while getting a proper focus. After you get it down, stand about 15 feet away and do the same thing but this time, do it while walking to the 10 foot mark. After you get it down, try doing it faster. Another good lesson is to set up a foreground element, then fully zoom in and get focus on an object across the room, then zoom/walk out and get focus on the foreground element, and vice/versa. These two lessons will really hone your z/f skills. Most likely, you won't be asked to do crazy zooms very often, but the point is to know your system so well that you'll be able to handle any situation you're given.

If used properly, these simple zooms can add a tremendous amount of speed to your arsenal which will easily set you apart from your competition. Utilize them as accents to your regular set of moves and try not to make them your centrepiece. Maintaining the vibe of the Steadicam is key to your movement because any old camera person can play with zooms. The ticket, as always, is to keep practicing and smooth everything out because when it comes to the Steadi and zoom combo, it’s crucial to ensure that none of your movements are jarring. You can have the most amazing shot plotted out in your head, but if the end result is a jarring segmented mess, you won’t be getting many more gigs. It's all about operating smoothly and defining your own comfort level.

Finding the perfect focus while shooting Mr John Cleese!

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